Damper rod oil lock piece stuck inside fork Hey everyone! I'm not wasting any time, I took apart one of my forks, to put in some 15w oil and replace the seals, because oil was seeping into the outside of the fork. The oil lock piece got left in the lower but NOT actually in position. The fork was reassembled with the damper rod getting bolted into the bottom of the lower as it should, but with the oil lock next to the rod, not on it. Ride hard and beat the crap out of that piece with the bottom of the stanchion. The next two bolts that I needed to loosen were the, damper rod bolts. They hold the oil lock piece, and the damper rods in place. In the second step of this maintenance task, I tightened the fork spring pre-load, all the way down. The reason I did this was, to place as much tension as I could, on to the damper rods. Use a large medical syringe to inject 200 cc of SAE 15 fork oil into the drain hole near the bottom of the fork. Hold the fork with the bottom tilted up to help prevent spillage. You can use a piece of 6 mm neoprene tubing to make an adapter that will form its own threads when you screw it into the drain hole, and then attach the syringe to your adapter. Oil lock piece on the end of the fork cylinder assembly. On one fork, this came out with the cylinder assembly, but on the other it remained in the bottom fork slider: From top left to bottom right: fork tube bushing, fork slider bushing, washer, oil seal, retaining clip, and dust cover: Simple fork bushing driver. Insert the piston, with it's rebound spring, into the fork tube and gently let it slide down until it's tip comes out the other end. Insert the oil lock piece onto the tip of the piston and push it into the fork tube, hold the tube horizontal to keep it in place. While holding the tube horizontal, 1) Remove the front fork bolts and drain oil. 2) With each fork bottom held in a vice, remove the socket bolt using the Allan key hand wrench and separate the pipe from the bottom case. 3) Remove the front fork dust seal, 48mm snap ring and oil seal. One fork came apart no problems.
9 Nov 2016 Seals atop the sliders and around the stanchions keep fork oil in and contaminants out. A dust cap or cover usually protects them. Damper rods� Once removed, inside you will see a large clip on tgop of the fork oil seal. You'll find it lock onto the fork inners. 14. Now get a After a few pulls the old oil seal will come out and you will have two pieces of fork in your hand. Here's the procedure for reassembling and replacing the front forks and fork oil seals on a. Now we install things into the fork. The oil lock piece is probably still�
11 Oct 2007 Default oil lock piece in front fork. i've already had one fork disassembled for bout a week. so i was lookin at the microfiche for parts i'm gonna� 14 May 2013 From what I can see the oil lock piece is still in the bottom of the fork so it shouldn' t be that. I can't think of anything else that would be obstructing it� Worn and leaking fork seal. damaged bush causing scoring to chrome; Pitting, scratches or damage to chrome Remove oil lock piece, or if it is stuck in place Remove the oil lock piece from the damper if it does not slide out. Inspection. Inspect the fork tube, slider, damper rod, damper rod ring, rebound spring, and oil � the fork tube bushing 12. On the left fork, remove the spring seat, spring and oil lock valve from inside the slider. 13. Remove the oil lock piece from inside trhe� Loosen the clamps on the lower triple tree and pull the fork tubes down and out with gentle twisting motions. [IMAGE: Remove upper fork lock screw, drain fork oil .]�
The oil lock piece got left in the lower but NOT actually in position. The fork was reassembled with the damper rod getting bolted into the bottom of the lower as it should, but with the oil lock next to the rod, not on it. Ride hard and beat the crap out of that piece with the bottom of the stanchion. The next two bolts that I needed to loosen were the, damper rod bolts. They hold the oil lock piece, and the damper rods in place. In the second step of this maintenance task, I tightened the fork spring pre-load, all the way down. The reason I did this was, to place as much tension as I could, on to the damper rods. Use a large medical syringe to inject 200 cc of SAE 15 fork oil into the drain hole near the bottom of the fork. Hold the fork with the bottom tilted up to help prevent spillage. You can use a piece of 6 mm neoprene tubing to make an adapter that will form its own threads when you screw it into the drain hole, and then attach the syringe to your adapter. Oil lock piece on the end of the fork cylinder assembly. On one fork, this came out with the cylinder assembly, but on the other it remained in the bottom fork slider: From top left to bottom right: fork tube bushing, fork slider bushing, washer, oil seal, retaining clip, and dust cover: Simple fork bushing driver. Insert the piston, with it's rebound spring, into the fork tube and gently let it slide down until it's tip comes out the other end. Insert the oil lock piece onto the tip of the piston and push it into the fork tube, hold the tube horizontal to keep it in place. While holding the tube horizontal, 1) Remove the front fork bolts and drain oil. 2) With each fork bottom held in a vice, remove the socket bolt using the Allan key hand wrench and separate the pipe from the bottom case. 3) Remove the front fork dust seal, 48mm snap ring and oil seal. One fork came apart no problems. In this video, I show you how to change the oil in the front forks of your motorcycle (inverted forks). This video covers 43mm Showa forks on my Ducati 848, but the procedure is similar across
11 Oct 2007 Default oil lock piece in front fork. i've already had one fork disassembled for bout a week. so i was lookin at the microfiche for parts i'm gonna� 14 May 2013 From what I can see the oil lock piece is still in the bottom of the fork so it shouldn' t be that. I can't think of anything else that would be obstructing it� Worn and leaking fork seal. damaged bush causing scoring to chrome; Pitting, scratches or damage to chrome Remove oil lock piece, or if it is stuck in place Remove the oil lock piece from the damper if it does not slide out. Inspection. Inspect the fork tube, slider, damper rod, damper rod ring, rebound spring, and oil � the fork tube bushing 12. On the left fork, remove the spring seat, spring and oil lock valve from inside the slider. 13. Remove the oil lock piece from inside trhe� Loosen the clamps on the lower triple tree and pull the fork tubes down and out with gentle twisting motions. [IMAGE: Remove upper fork lock screw, drain fork oil .]� 9 Nov 2016 Seals atop the sliders and around the stanchions keep fork oil in and contaminants out. A dust cap or cover usually protects them. Damper rods�